1. Paper-cut Alfama: terracotta roofs stepping down the hill toward São Jorge Castle and the cathedral towers, with the river pale in the distance.

    01 Alfama · First light

    Lisbon, cut from paper.

    Start above the oldest quarter, where terracotta roofs stack down the hill below São Jorge Castle. Scroll to fly in.

  2. A narrow paper street with tiled façades, laundry lines overhead and a yellow Tram 28 coming down the rails.

    02 Graça · Tram 28

    Follow the yellow tram.

    The old wooden trams still squeeze through lanes barely wider than they are, climbing past tiled façades and washing hung out to dry.

  3. Market stalls under striped awnings piled with oranges, lemons and greens, leading to a market hall with a green dome and a clock above its archway.

    03 Cais do Sodré · The market

    Lunch under striped awnings.

    Down by the river, Mercado da Ribeira still sells fish, fruit and flowers, with counters from local cooks in the main hall. Fly through the arch to the water.

  4. Belém Tower standing in the river at sunset, with sailboats, a pine-lined promenade and the red suspension bridge far upstream.

    04 Belém · Golden hour

    The tower that watched the ships leave.

    Belém Tower was built in the early 1500s to guard the mouth of the Tagus. Walk the riverfront at sunset and watch the light go orange.

  5. The Tagus at night: the red 25 de Abril Bridge lit along its deck, lamplit houses on both banks, sailboats, and Cristo Rei on the far hill under the moon.

    05 The Tagus · After dark

    End the day under the red bridge.

    The 25 de Abril Bridge glows over the river, with Cristo Rei on the far bank. Now pick where to go and what to eat when you get there.

    Explore destinations See what to eat

Destinations

Four places worth the climb

Lisbon is built on hills, so plan each day around one neighbourhood and walk the rest. These are the spots from the flight, with what to do once you arrive.

  • Paper-cut Alfama rooftops climbing toward the walls of São Jorge Castle.

    Alfama & São Jorge Castle

    Get lost in the steep lanes, then climb to the castle walls for the widest view over the river.

  • A paper-cut yellow tram on narrow rails between tiled houses.

    Tram 28

    The classic yellow tram rattles through Graça, Alfama and Estrela. Board early in the morning to skip the queue.

  • Paper-cut Belém Tower rising from the river in warm evening light.

    Belém Tower

    A 16th-century fort at the water's edge, a short walk from the Jerónimos Monastery and the riverside gardens.

  • The red suspension bridge lit at night, with the Cristo Rei statue on the hill across the river.

    25 de Abril Bridge & Cristo Rei

    Watch the bridge light up from the riverside, or take the ferry from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas for the view back.

Food

What to eat between the hills

Four dishes you will find all over the city, from the bakery counter at breakfast to the grill on a summer night.

  • Paper-cut custard tarts with scorched tops on a plate, dusted with cinnamon.

    Pastel de nata

    Custard tart with a blistered, caramelised top and a flaky shell. Eat it warm, with cinnamon and a small coffee.

  • Paper-cut grilled sardines laid over a slice of bread with a lemon wedge.

    Grilled sardines

    The smell of June in Lisbon: sardines grilled over charcoal and laid on bread during the Santo António festivities.

  • A paper-cut pork sandwich in a soft roll with a stripe of mustard.

    Bifana

    Thin pork steak simmered in garlic and white wine, served in a soft roll. Add mustard and eat it standing at the counter.

  • A paper-cut terracotta dish of shredded salt cod with egg, potato straws, black olives and parsley.

    Bacalhau à Brás

    Shredded salt cod folded with matchstick potatoes and soft egg, finished with black olives and parsley.