01 / The harbor

A city afloat.

Begin where ferries cross the water and steep hills hold a skyline of improbable layers.

02 / Star Ferry

Cross the current.

The green and white ferry gives you the best seat in town: the city unfolding on both shores.

03 / The tramway

Follow the ding ding through narrow streets, beneath signs, awnings, and windows stacked skyward.

04 / Temple Street

As the market lights come on, follow the scent of dinner and find your own way into the night.

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A small world, a big city

The best route is rarely a straight line. Start by the water, ride across it, slow down on a tram, and let the evening decide where you eat.

Make a stop

Three familiar places, each with a different view of the city.

Walk the edge of the water and watch the skyline change with the light.

A short crossing with a long view of both sides of the city.

Follow the lanterns past market stalls and open-air tables.

After the walk

Make room for a few Hong Kong classics.

A flaky pastry shell around a soft, warm custard center.

Springy noodles, shrimp wontons, and clear, savory broth.

Strong black tea softened with evaporated milk.